Any of the following choices will make a positive social and environmental impact:
- Select garments made from organic natural fibers or eco-friendly synthetics.
- Encourage your tailor to operate sustainably in addition to designing your garments using eco-friendly fabrics.
- Select ready-to-wear garments from manufacturers with fair wage and labor practices, also called fair trade practices.
- Donate every garment and textile you no longer want, even those you think are too run down. Goodwill and similar organizations work with salvage companies to ship abroad the garments they can't sell here in the U.S.If fabric is not fit to ship, it's repurposed as seat cushions, pillows or shop rags.
Organic vs. Natural Cotton
Organic Cotton is grown without the use of Pesticides, Fungicides, Herbicides, Swage Sludge, Irradiation or Genetic Engineering. Like all other products labeled "organic", it is certified by an accredited independent organization.
Worth noting: Conventional Cotton Farming uses approximately 25% of the world’s Insecticides and more than 10% of the Pesticides. The US Environmental Protection Agency categorizes seven of the 15 most common pesticides usedon cotton in the year 2000 in the US as "possible," "likely," "probable," or "known" human carcinogens.
Eight years later, this fact is worth noting because it takes 10 years to ban a pesticide usingcurrent U.S. procedures.
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Organic or Eco-Wool
In order for wool to be certified as organic in the United States, it must be produced in accordance with federal standards for organic livestock production, which include:
- livestock feed and forage used from the last third of gestation forward must be organic;
- use of synthetic hormones, vaccinations and genetic engineering is prohibited;
- use of synthetic pesticides (internal, external and on pastures) is prohibited; and
- producers must encourage livestock health through good cultural and management practices.
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Organic Silk
There are no set standards for organic silk but one Chinese producer’s
organic silk is made by feeding their silkworms “biologically dynamic”
mulberries that are free from harmful substances.
Does biologically dynamic = genetically modified?
If you care, let me know and I’ll find out.
Organic Linen
Traditionally, the name linen was used for fabric made from flax. Today linen
might be made from cotton, hemp or it could be synthetic. In any case, organic
linen is made from fibers grown without the use of toxic pesticides and fertilizers.
Bamboo
Bamboo fabric is a natural textile made from the pulp of the bamboo grass. It
wears and holds color like silk and wicks moisture away from the skin so it keeps
you cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. Bamboo products are considered
sustainable because the stalks grow about one foot each month, making it quickly
renewable. However, a few circumstances now challenge the breadth of its eco-friendliness:
- Because of the demand, many farmers are now
monocropping it – meaning it is the sole crop being grown – which reduces biodiversity
and, in a few short seasons, can lead to an increase in pests and disease and
the need for pesticides.
- The sole processor of bamboo fabric for clothing
sold in the U.S. is a Chinese company with a patented, proprietary process.
Not subject to the transparency laws in the U.S., the factory’s process has
been compared to that of rayon, which involves the use of caustic chemicals.
According to Morris Saintsing, sales development and operations partner of bamboo
clothing retailer Bamboosa, greener ways of creating bamboo fabrics are being
tested, but those generally result in a linen-like product that doesn't have
the silky texture people are looking for in clothing. Few of the alternatives
are in use, but "We're doing what we can to make it a greener process," he says.
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Traditional
Synthetics are made from the by-products of petroleum processing and
do not biodegrade.
Eco-friendly regenerated (synthetic)
fibers
They are synthetic in the sense that they’re not plucked from a stem, sheered
off an animal or spun by an insect, but the actual category into which they fit
is Regenerated Fibers: polymers. This class of
material has multiple (poly) qualities – and are chemically transformed into
fiber from a natural source like grain, seaweed or wood pulp.
Ingeo is
manufactured from the protein found in corn. Looks and wears like silk or cotton
depending on how it is woven; Up to 50% less fossil fuel is used in production
- with up to 60% less green house gases being emitted. Biodegrades in months
when exposed to high temperature and moisture, compared to up to 90 years for
cotton. Can also be composted.
| Pros: |
Cons: |
| When blended
with cotton and wool, Ingeo results in lighter garments that wick moisture
away from the skin. If you tend to perspire heavily this may be a great green
option for you. Made from genetically engineered corn, which has a much higher
yield per acre and uses less pesticide. |
Made from genetically
engineered corn. How do you feel about the use of genetically
modified crops for products like fabric and food storage containers? |
Worth Noting: Fifty-two percent of the cotton produced
last year was genetically engineered with a bacteria gene to resist bugs without
the use of pesticides.
Lyocell is produced by breaking
down the cellulose in wood pulp. It’s a strong, durable fabric that drapes like
rayon and is often with other natural fibers such as wool, cotton, silk, and
flax. The cotton blend is a stronger, more durable fabric; the wool blend, more
absorbent. The U.S. government’s “Textile, Wool, and Fur Labeling Acts” of the
U.S. Government, mandates that man-made and natural fibers must be identified
by their generic names, however Lyocell is better known by its brand name Tencel®.
| Pros: |
Cons: |
| The raw material
for lyocell comes from wood pulp from trees grown on managed tree farms where
replanting rates exceed usage or from low-grade recycled paper. |
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| Lyocell (Tencel®
) Image Gallery |
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Modal is made with reconstituted
cellulose from Beech trees. Its texture is similar to silk or cotton and it breathes
and holds brilliant color like silk. Also stays soft through repeated washings.
| Pros: |
Cons: |
| Offers high color brilliance;
stays soft through repeated washings. 100% biodegradable, this bio-based fabric
is 50% more water-absorbent than cotton, but it dyes just as well, holds color
fast, and is resistant to fading. It seemingly can do no wrong. |
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